For
dedicated do-it-yourselfers, creating a patio, walkway, driveway, or other
outdoor area with interlocking pavers can be a rewarding task. Doing the job
right the first time, however, is essential.
Paver stones are stronger and last longer than poured concrete and any
subsequent adjustments and repairs are far easier. Also, some paver systems are
environmentally sustainable as they allow rainwater to pass into the ground
without redirecting the flow unnaturally.
Belgard
Hardscape’s interlocking pavers from ProCoat Systems in Denver are the premium quality materials and are
available in a wide variety of aesthetically pleasing designs, colors, and
styles.
Building the Base
The base is
the most critical element of a well-constructed interlocking paver surface. Unevenness or variable stability
can cause pavers to sink and separate to create an unstable and unattractive
overall surface.
Steps for
creating a stable base:
1.
Excavate
and level the sub-grade to create a flat substrate. The depth of excavation is
calculated by adding the paver height and the depth of the compacted bedding
sand and stone base material.
2.
The
depth of the base material depends on the eventual use. For a walkway, the
depth need only be 3” to 4”. For a driveway, the depth should be 4” to 8”,
depending on the weight of the vehicles.
3.
The
base material can be decomposed granite, crushed stone, Class II Road Base or
recycled concrete material.
4. Using a vibrating plate compactor,
make sure the entire surface is smooth and level for the next steps. Build in
an approximate 1/4” drop per foot to facilitate drainage if the pavers are not permeable.
Applying the Sand Layer
Next, add a
1” layer of clean concrete sand. To ensure a level surface, professionals
suggest laying two one-inch diameter “screeding” pipes spaced 6-feet apart in
parallel. Fill the space with sand and pull a 2x4 across the pipes to level the
sandy surface. Remove the pipes and fill the voids with sand.
Install the Edge Restraints
At this
point, defining the exact shape and limits of the paver surface is important.
While some limits may already be established, as with the edge of a building,
the installer can use concrete or vinyl-molded restraint systems. Whether
permanent restraints or temporary, these should be well secured to accurately
define the desired perimeter.
Laying the Interlocking Pavers
Always
moving forward, start at a 90° corner or the center of the starting line.
Preset string will ensure you are heading in a straight line. Never step in the
sand and place the pavers evenly without tilting. Continually recheck the
straightness of your pattern. Leave a 1/8” joint between the pavers.
Shaping the Edges
As you
approach the edges, spaces will need to be measured and cut to create a perfect
border within the edge restraints. Cutting should be performed with precision
using a masonry saw.
Vibrate in Place
With the
vibrating plate compactor, run over the set pavers once to set the pieces
evenly in the sand beneath. This step pushes sand up into the seams to begin
the interlocking process.
Spreading Sand Over the Pavers
Spread a
layer of sand over the entire surface. Run the compactor over the surface once
more to push the pavers more firmly into the sand beneath and to create further
interlocking.
Finally,
sweep excess sand into the spaces between the pavers to finish the job, before
removing away the excess.
Sealing the Surface
Once the
surface is complete, spread a commercial sealer to enhance the appearance and
protect the surface. Sealers come in many types and appearances that will
highlight the color and patterns of the new surface.
This post was originally published at http://www.procoatsystems.com/steps-laying-interlocking-pavers/
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